Willamette Valley 2013, Argyle

Its America, so the Willamette Valley has not yet evolved its own style. It's not possible to say "Oh, that's an old school Willamette pinot." The reference points aren't there yet. So each wine from the valley is a surprise. This pinot noir from the Willamette Valley is aiming for elegance and achieves a lightness of being. Its more ethereal than elegant. A (too) light pinky red, transparent robe leads onto a nose of cranberry, raspberry and white watermelon flesh. A touch of sweet licorice. Fresh, tangy berry fruit driven on the palate, with no waist to speak of or much flesh. So a big contrast to some of the alcoholic, busty monsters from nearby producers. Whilst I prefer a lively, elegant syle over something heavy and viscuous, this has pushed the concept too far. Scores 19/30 for a Willamette Valley.